'Cause the Power You're Supplying, It's Electrifying!

The most complex part of Ansel's design has been the electrical system, from the overall design and selection of components, to the size of wires and fuses, to the physical layout of everything.  While the process wasn't overly difficult, there was definitely a big learning curve, and I had to create a spreadsheet just to keep track of the details!

The spreadsheet!

In the process I had to make a number of important decisions, such as:

• How many watts of solar did I want?
• Did I want to have the ability to connect to "shore power"? (Shore power is an external AC power supply such as you'd find in many campgrounds.)
• What size inverter did I need?  (An inverter converts DC power from the battery to AC power, which is used to power AC devices, such as a laptop, which is really the only AC device I plan to run.)
  
• How many lights, 12V outlets, etc. did I need?
• And, most significantly, what type and size battery did I need?

The last question was dependent on a number of variables, but most importantly cost and how long I wanted to be able to run off the battery without any charging.  Originally I was going to go with an AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) battery due to cost, but they are extremely heavy, and I would've had to get at least two to satisfy my desired battery life.  And there were other negatives as well.  So in the end I purchased the crème de la crème of RV batteries, a lithium battery (or more technically, a lithium iron phosphate, or LiFePO4, battery).  Other than the van itself, this was the single-most expensive item I bought.  But, I found a good quality one at a reasonable price, and the size (200ah) will theoretically supply my worst-case power demands for approximately two days without charging, even from solar (which is unlikely to happen)!

The battery fresh out of the box (it weighs about 60 lbs)

The battery in its final home.  The cargo strap and 2x4's are to keep it securely in place.

One of the major challenges was where to locate and orient all the major electrical components.  The goal is not only to have ready access to these components for repairs & future modifications, but also to minimize length and a mish-mash of electrical cables.  During my on-line research, I found one van-life couple who used two sides of a piece of plywood for their electrical panel, thus making use of three dimensions versus just two, which is what many van builders do.  I thought this was a brilliant idea and decided to emulate this concept.  So, I traced out the panel on a piece of cardboard and kept moving the components around until I felt I had the best configuration.  I didn't know exactly what the back side would look like until I actually started running wires, so I needed to use some imagination and rely somewhat on faith.

I decided to mount the panel at a right angle to the van wall and over the wheel well for space and access reasons.  This resulted in an unusually shaped panel, which only added to the layout challenge.  After insulating the van wall and sheathing with plywood, I added an outlet for shore power and mounted the converter/charger on the wall.  I then cut out the electrical panel, mounted it in place and installed the rest of the components.  

Next step: install the solar panels and start running cables.  Then, first power-up.  Keeping my fingers crossed!

The insulated side wall of the garage before plywood sheathing is installed.

 

Side wall with plywood sheathing and with converter/charger mounted (converter/charger is plugged into box which is connected to external shore power connection).  Note also insulation over wheel well.

The electrical panel before installation.  The oval slots and some of the round holes are for cable pass-thrus to the other side.  The remaining round holes are for isolation switches.

The electrical panel in place before mounting components

The panel with components mounted (clockwise from upper left: the solar panel controller, the 1000W inverter, the fuse box, and the DC to DC charger).  The round red & black items are isolation switches, and the small black rectangular items are breakers.

The back-side of the panel with bus bars (top left) and couple in-line fuses.  You can see I've started to run a couple wires already.

Fan-Tastic!

After my buddy Jim helped me install the window, I decide to tackle installation of the roof ventilation fan by myself.  I figured, hey, I can do this!  And, actually, it wasn't too bad, but I did discover (not surprisingly) that my metal-working skills are nowhere as good as Jim's.  Unwittingly, I made one cut with the angle grinder about 1 inch too long.  Fortunately, this would be underneath the mounting flange and easily sealed up with butyl tape & sealant.  Phew, that was close!

The fan was one of the few, if not the only item I purchased that was top-of-the-line.  The Maxxfan is widely regarded as the "Cadillac" of RV roof ventilation fans, and I purchased their deluxe model, which includes 10 speeds both in & out and a remote control.  Originally I wasn't going to get the model with the remote, but where the fan is located (above the bed and near the rear doors), it would be cumbersome to operate the controls manually.  So, I went all out!  

I decided to locate the fan above the bed for a couple reasons: one, it would create some cross-flow ventilation in the van with the window was open, and two, it would enable cooler air to be brought in at night (I'm one of those people who like to have air moving while sleeping).

The Maxxfan Deluxe, fresh out of the box

 

The first step of installation process was to cut a square opening in the metal roof.  Like the window installation, this was a little scary, but I was up for the challenge.  I started with a jigsaw, but towards the end the metal got too wobbly, and I had to switch to the angle grinder.  Using the grinder for the entire cut probably would have been best, but I found that it was difficult to control the grinder since I was kneeling on the roof and working only from one direction.

After cleaning up and priming the edges, the next step was to install the roof flange in place using butyl tape and screws.  I built a wood frame on the ceiling and around the fan opening to provide some extra strength and to have something for the screws to grip into besides just the roof metal (which is pretty darn thin).  Then drop the fan into the roof flange, secure with screws, and seal everything up to prevent water from getting into the van (I used both butyl sealant and a rubberized sealant spray).  Overall, I think it was a success!  (It rained pretty hard the next day, and there was no evidence of water leakage...yay!).

The cutting line

The opening -- notice the "oops" at the upper right-hand corner!

Installed fan -- front view (looking towards rear of van)

Installed fan -- side view

Installed fan -- inside view.  Note the wood frame

 

My biggest challenge during the whole process was getting onto and off the van roof.  Initially I had planned to access the roof via the rear ladder.  But, when I tried to do this, I realized there would be no graceful -- and probably safe -- way of getting off the ladder onto the roof, and vice versa (which begs the question of the utility of this ladder for me going forward...but hey, it's there!).  So, I got an extension ladder and set it up on the side of the van.  Getting on the roof the first time was no issue, but I realized that getting down might be a bit more hazardous.  I wasn't afraid of being on the van roof (slanted roofs are another story) or climbing the ladder itself, but I was a little nervous about the potential for the ladder to shift when stepping onto it to get off.  Fortunately, our neighbors across the street were having a garage sale, so I yelled over to Evan to help hold the ladder for me.  He also helped hand me some things I forgot to take up with me (like my drill when I forgot I needed to pre-drill the holes for the flange or an extra battery when the battery on my jigsaw died).  Thanks Evan!

The only remaining roof project would be installing the solar panels, but hopefully I won't even need to get onto the roof to do this.

Moving forward!!!

I Can See Clearly Now

Ansel has a window!

My buddy Jim came over this week to help me put in a window in the van.  I probably could've done it by myself but: (a) Jim has experience with cutting metal and auto body work, (b) it helps to have two people during final fitting of the window (i.e., one inside and one outside), and (c) Jim really likes to help with this kind of stuff!

Having a window in a campervan is essential...otherwise you feel like you're in a sardine can!  And, it helps with ventilation.  Many van-lifers have multiple windows...2 or more in the sides and sometimes 2 in the back.  While it would have be nice to nice to install more than just this one window, windows are VERY expensive!  Plus, you have to provide coverings (blinds, shades, etc.) for privacy, and they are a source of heat loss.

Thus, I decided to put in only one window.  In addition, I opted for a smaller and "universal fit" window, which saved me a few hundred dollars.  I decided to place the window in the galley area.  This way I could look outside while I was cooking and doing the dishes...there's nothing worse than staring at a blank wall while washing dishes!  This location will also enable some some good cross-ventilation with the ceiling van above the bed.

The install was pretty straightforward.  It only took us a few hours, and fortunately we didn't run into any snags.  Here were the basic steps we followed:

1. Make a template for the cut out.  Nothing was provided so I had to make a template from cardboard.  The first two tries mysteriously were failures, but I got it the third time!
2. Position the template on the outside of the van where you want the window and mark the cut line with a Sharpie.
3. Cut the window opening.  We decided to use an angle grinder for this.  Many folks use a jig saw, but the thin metal walls can wobble terribly with a jig saw, resulting in erratic cuts.
4. Adjust the fit.  This took us at least 5 or 6 tries to get the window to fit perfectly, but it's better to start with a smaller opening and work slowly to enlarge it for a good, tight fit.  We (or rather, Jim) used a "flapper wheel" on the angle grinder for this.
5. Clean up the edges, again with the flapper wheel.
6. Prime the exposed metal edges.
7. Prime the surface of the metal for the adhesive.
8. Apply the adhesive.  This is a special urethane adhesive which is actually the same adhesive used to bond windshields.
9. Insert the window into place and secure until the adhesive sets

While the window is not going anywhere (at least I hope not), I do plan to build some wood supports on the inside to help secure it, minimize vibration, and also provide a base for the future trim.

Inspired by Jim's awesome help, I later cut in...all by myself now...my shore power outlet and water tank fill opening.  Things are really starting to materialize!

Thanks so much Jimmy!!!!

The cut line on the driver's side

Jim starting to cut

Initial cuts looking from the inside

Jim cutting in the curved corners...a master at work!  (I couldn't do this like he does)

The opening from the inside

From the outside

Jim resizing/cleaning up the edges

"Would you like some ice cream?"

Window installed and clamped into place

From the inside again

Water fill port

Shore power outlet

SPECIAL EDITION: Ansel gets his "papers"

While there are other developments with Ansel that I could post first, I simply couldn't wait to share the fact that as of today, Ansel is now official in the state of Michigan with the arrival of his license plate & registration.  

I have never gotten a "vanity" or personalized license plate.  It's just not my thing.  But, it just made sense in the case of Ansel. 

When I ordered the plate, the lady at the Secretary of State's office asked me "What does it stand for?".  I explained that it didn't stand for anything and that Ansel was the name of a famous photographer, Ansel Adams.  She just gave me this blank look like she had no idea who that was...I suppose not everyone knows who Ansel Adams is, and I'm sure she needed to ask that question to verify it wasn't the name of some extremist organization, a derogatory term or an acronym for some offensive phrase (use your imagination here).

I had to add a number to the end because just plain Ansel was already taken (Who might that be?  Might need to meet up!).  I could've added an "A' for Adams, but ANSELA didn't look quite right.  Zero would have been nice, but in Michigan they convert zero to the letter "O" on personalized plates, and ANSELO would have been even worse.  Thus, it had to be a number between 1 and 9.  My favorite number is "5", but "1" sorta made sense too.  Anyway, I decided it would be whatever I wrote down when I got in there, and "1" it was!

By the way, the blue license plate is new this year and quickly becoming commonplace.  It is a reproduction of the Michigan license plate issued in 1965.  I was nine at the time but very clearly remember this plate, which was in use for many years.  This too just seemed to be appropriate for Ansel!

Stay tuned!

 

Anatomy of the Bed

One of the most important features of a campervan is a comfortable bed.  There are many (and sometimes very clever) campervan bed designs, including the classic convertible bench/table configuration.  I chose to build what's known as a "platform" bed.  A couple campervans I rented had bed designs that required you to convert a bench seat into the bed each night and then reverse the process in the morning.  Let me tell you...this gets old in a real hurry!  So, and since I didn't really need a lot of bench seating, a permanent bed configuration made the most sense.  In addition, the platform design -- which is where the bed is 3-4 feet above the floor -- creates a large storage space underneath, commonly referred to as "the garage".  This is where my water system, electrical system and propane tank will be located.

Next decision was how to orient the bed: cross-wise (perpendicular to chassis) or in line with the chassis.  I decided on the former since it maximizes the amount of available floor space.  I also opted for a full-sized bed versus the queen that I had originally planned on as this adds an extra 6 inches to the living area (every inch is critical in a campervan).  The only negative with orienting the bed crosswise is that mattresses, even RV mattresses, are longer than the width of the van.  However, in the case of a full-sized bed, this is only a few inches, and memory foam mattresses can easily be trimmed to size.  I also plan to build in some "cut outs" at the head and foot of the bed to minimize the amount I'll need to trim (this'll make more sense in future posts).

Building the bed frame itself was rather straightforward.  There was a horizontal metal support conveniently located at the appropriate height, to which I attached 2x6's using rivnuts (this of course required a special installation tool) and bolts.  I installed 2x4 and 2x6 cross-supports (the 2x6 was at the rear since there will not be any vertical supports), and I cut rabbets in each of the cross supports to accommodate the bed slats that will be installed later.

Rivnut before 2x6 and bolt installed.

Bed frame from interior of van

Bed frame from exterior of van

One slat setting in rabbets of cross supports.  I will install and nail in the slats at a later time since I still need to be able to stand up in this area to access the ceiling.

There was an approximate 3 inch gap between the main 2x6's and the van wall. While this was probably not a big deal, it just seemed logical to me to fit pieces of wood into the gaps to help support the head and foot of the mattress.  Plus, these would be helpful when framing the cutouts.  The horizontal metal supports were beveled at the top, which I guessed to be 30 degrees.  I tested out a couple scrap pieces to confirm the angle, which proved to be a good move since the angle was actually about 27 degrees.  Another example of custom fitting that would be required throughout the van build!

Piece of beveled wood to fill in gap between 2x6 and wall.

View of bed frame with rear doors closed -- I'll talk about the decorative panels along the sides of the doors in a later post.